We planned a vacation in Turkey for a fortnight but could not do so because of other plans. However, we could squeeze in Cappadocia in addition to the 3 days in Istanbul for a short holiday. Turkey fascinates me as it straddles Asia and Europe and promised to be a mix of many cultures. It was the only European country with a predominantly Islamic population. Yet, it remained a secular and modern country with total separation of religion and politics. In fact, I found religion to be a very private part of the people’s lives and there was no open display of the same. Later on during the visit I was informed how the country proactively took steps to remove the influence of religion from education, politics and others public places. This was unique in itself and a radical change from Indonesia which I had visited only 2 weeks before. Turkey was an unforegttable place and the Following would be my top five experiences.
- Staying in a cave hotel in Urgup
- Hot air ballooning in Cappadocia
- Sultanahmet – Bazaars, Mosques and Palaces
- Turkish bath at Goreme
- Bosphorus cruise straddling two continents
One of the most resourceful websites in planning a Turkey vacation is Tom Brosnahan’s www.turkeytravelplanner.com. The site has got all that you need to know about attractions, itinerary, tour agencies, maps, FAQ etc. It is a one stop information source. Here I would like to point out 2 Turkey tour operators whom I found very efficient. Argeus Tours is very helpful with internal tickets (tickets cost a lot less when booked through an agent in Turkey vis-a-vis online) and itinerary plannning. I used them for this trip and and relatives have also found them helpful. Another good tour operator is Rock Valley who speacialize in Cappadocia. Though I did not use them they were very quick to respond and had good options.
Our Itinerary
Vacationers: Shree Narayan – Meenakshi Bihani & Raghav – Devpriya Bihani
Outbound Flight: Turkish Airlines – Bombay-Istanbul on 18th May at 05:55pm, arriving at 10:15.
18th May: Istiklal Caddesi, Taksim Square, Ortakoy Village, Dolmabahce Palace & Bosphorus Cruise. Overnight: Conrad Istanbul
19th May: Full Day at Conference. Overnight: Conrad Istanbul
20th May: Sultanahmet: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Galata Bridge. Overnight: Conrad Istanbul
Flight: Turkish Airlines. Departs Istanbul 0705 hrs and reaches Nevsehir (Cappadocia) at 0820 hrs. Cappadocia has another airport in Kayseri.
21st May: Pigeon Valley, Kaymakli (option 2 is Derinkuyu), Soganli Valley, Mustafapasa, Goreme. Overnight: Serinn House, Urgup.
22nd May: Devrent Valley, Pasabag, Zelve museum, Avanos, Goreme Museum, Uchisar Castle Overnight: Serinn House, Urgup
23rd May: Hot Air Ballooning. Inbound Flight: Turkish Airlines – Kayseri – Bombay on 2nd May at 14:30pm, arriving 04:30am via Istanbul.
Day 1: On arrival in Istanbul we were transported to our hotel, the Conrad. Other great options are the Marmara Taksim at Taksim square and the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet if you are in a mood to splurge. However, instead of a standard road transfer, the agency gave a transfer via boat. Reason given was that the road journey would take very long due to traffic and boat would save time. Interesting… After a quick lunch at the hotel we got out to explore the new town area of Istanbul, Beyoglu. We headed straight for Taksim Square in the heart of new town. In the middle a monument commemorates the heroes who established Turkey as a modern nation. From Taksim Square starts Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian thoroughfare. It is approximately 3 km long and it is estimated that approximately 3 million walk the avenue in a single day on holidays. The avenue is like a melting pot of people from all over the world. It is always packed and yet there is space for more. The street itself is full of boutique stores, cafes, restaurants and theaters and heritage buildings which retain their architectural styles. One can easily spend half a day traversing the avenue with its shops and eateries. A speciality were the fresh and warm chestnuts being sold from many stalls, a trend near all tourist sites.
In the evening, we took a cruise on the Bosphorus river. The river is the dividing line between Europe and Asia which bisects not only Turkey but also its capital Istanbul. Most of attractions of Istanbul lie in the European side and we did not cross over to Asian Istanbul during our visit. Before the Cruise we had some free time in Ortakoy village in the Bosphorus area. The village is a cute place with a few interesting shops and cafes by the Bosphorus. The Dolmabahce Palace is also close-by and worth visiting. The cruise departs from pier near the Ortakoy Mosque and the European end of the Bosphorus Bridge (the first bridge straddling the continents of Europe and Asia). The cruise was nice with good weather in the evening and lovely views of the city of Istanbul. Some local music and dances were also arranged to give a feel of the Turkish culture. I would recommend the cruise in the evening as anyways the attractions would have closed by then. One must have the special ice-cream that they serve in Ortakoy cafes and presumably in other Istanbul areas as well. It is called Dondurma and it has a special texture which makes it different.
Day 2: This day was consumed in the conference and there was absolutely no free time. Even in the evening an entertainment program had been organised. Though there was no time to sightsee, the conference was very good. The hosts had arranged a session with Indian lyricist and writer Javed Akhtar and his actress wife Shabana Azmi, which was especially memorable. When, Hindi lyrics and dialogues have reached a new low, his writings are a glimmer of hope, that all is not lost.
Day 3: Today was a day full of sightseeing in the Sultanahmet area of old Istanbul containing the historical sites and bazaars. We started the day at the Hagia Sophia, a 4th century church which was converted into a mosque in the 15th century. In fact we can see that the central arch is slightly off centre, in order for it to be in the direction of Mecca. Since Turkey became a modern nation the monument is used as a museum. It is one of the greatest surviving example of Byzantine architecture, best known for its massive dome which is an architectural marvel for its time. Inside one can see Islamic and Catholic symbols side by side. The Catholic paintings and mosaics had been plastered over when converted to a mosque.
Next up was the Blue Mosque or Sultan Ahmed Mosque. Equally impressive from outside, the mosque has 6 tall minarets along with multiple domes. The interiors are done up in traditional blue tiles, which gives it the popular name, Blue Mosque. The mosque is still is use and shuts for tourists during prayer times. One should therefore plan the visit accordingly. Though not as impressive as the neighbouring Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque represents the best of the Ottoman Empire architecture. It was the largest mosque built during the Ottoman period.
A few minutes walk from the mosque brings us to the Topkapi Palace. This was the seat of the Ottoman Empire for over 400 years till 1856, after which the Sultan moved residence to the Dolmabahce Palace. The Topkapi Palace gives an insight into the Ottoman period Sultans and their lives. Must see are the Imperial Treasury, Imperial Hall, Council Rooms and the Harem. The Imperial Hall containing the Sultan’s throne is particularly magnificent. The purpose was to put visitors in awe of the Sultan’s power from the moment he stepped into the hall. The goldwork and stained glasswork is of the topmost quality. Throughout the palace one can see the Iznik blue tiles which have been used in many areas. The treasury has many precious memorabilia from the Ottoman period while the Harem is the most beautiful section. The Topkapi Palace along with the close by Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia take up half a day.
After lunch we made our way to the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is one the largest covered markets in the world. One can easily be lost in the maze of streets and 5000 odd shops. It is next to impossible to find your way through the shops and wind up where you started. It is best to take whichever entrance and exit is convenient. The shops range from jewellery, lanterns, carpets, spices and souvenirs. Shops of a particular vareity tend to be clustered together. You need the best of haggling and bargaining skills to get anywhere in the Grand Bazaar. The seller will never close a deal at a loss and hence bargaining down the price is not an issue. One should be satisfied with the price he quotes and be prepared to honour it. The other problem lies with genuinity of items sold particularly carpets. It is best to buy expensive items from reputed stores or bring along a local acquaintance. The Spice Bazaar is a smaller version of the Grand Bazaar and the shops here typically sell food items. Very popular is the jelly type turkish delights but may not be to everyones taste. All vareity of dryfruits and spices are avilable and one is free to taste as much as you wish. Other specialities are the pistachio baklava (absolutely fresh and fantastic), apple tea and saffron (you should be able to make out genuineness). Just outside the Spice Bazaar is the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn. The Golden Horn is a water body between the Old and New parts of Istanbul. That brought us to the end of a hectic day in Sultanahmet or Old Istanbul. It is a bustling city teeming with humanity while at the same time reminiscent of the Constantinople (Old name of Istanbul).
Day 4: We had an early morning flight today to Nevsehir Airport in Cappadocia. It is smaller than the main airport, Kayseri, but you can get cheaper flights to Nevsehir sometimes and it is equally convenient. There are multiple small towns to use as base for a Cappadocia trip. The most popular are Goreme and Urgup, though some prefer the seclusion of Uchisar or Avanos. Definitely do not stay in Nevsehir / Kayseri which do not provide the feel Cappadocia at all. We chose Urgup as our base because of its excellent cave hotels. We stayed at the Serinn House, but there are many other cave hotels next to this like Esbelli Evi, 4oda Caves and Yunak Evleri. These boutique places are wonderful and they are made special by the hosts. 4oda has the best views as it is at the highest elevation.
After a quick breakfast we started our private tour. First up was a panoramic view point from where we got a brid’s eye view of the Cappadocia landscape. This was going to be staple diet for the next 2 days. However, the first views were fabulous as the entire ground was covered with Fairy Chimneys and caves. These mushroom like structures have been formed by erosion by wind and water. The layer below is eroded while the top layer being of a harder material survives giving the mushroom or cap like formation. Next we visited an area called the Pigeon Valley. Over here a number of small squares were cut out in the chimney / caves in order to give houses for pigeons. This was done to collect the pigeon droppings which was used as a fertilizer by the people. The pigeon houses are actually all over Cappadocia and this particular place gives good views and has got this name.
Next we visited one of the several underground cities in Cappadocia, Kayamakli. You can also visit Derinkuyu underground city. Both are very similar and one should visit only one of them. However, to visit the cities you need to climb down / up several stories and pass through narrow tunnels crouching down. Some of these tunnels were 50 metres long and a height of 4 feet only. One feels claustrophobic inside and for people to stay here for several months was really tremendous. The civilization moved to these underground cities when they were attacked. They were safe underground as it was next to impossible to attack them inside. The narrows tunnels could easily be blocked and the soldiers would have to enter in a single file crouching uneasily. The hole in the middle of the round stone used to block the pathway was used to kill the soldier in front and block the way for further advancement. It is no surprise that the underground cities were never conquered by the enemy. Inside one can see how life was carried out underground. Storage areas, drainage, water, cooking, lighting methods are all there to be understood. One caveat: visitors with backaches, joint pain or those who feel claustrophobic should not go inside. Once you are in you have to go the full distance and returning back can cause a major jam inconveniencing other visitors. There is market selling sundry souvenirs and turkish handicrafts outside to keep those busy who skip the tour.
From Kayamakli, we went to Soganli Valley. One can go for a nice stroll / hike in the valley which contains pigeon houses, old churches and more fairy chimneys. The last stop on our tour was an ancient Greek village called Mustafapasa. Nothing much to see in the town except for some old Greek Houses and Churches. These places are not really about the attractions but the atmosphere. Here you can see life at its slow pace much as it was years ago. You can absorb the culture of the region as sip coffee in one of the taverns.
We dropped off in Goreme at the end of the tour; a nice town for some souvenir shopping. Our real motive was to enjoy a Turkish Hamam and what an experience it was. After a tiring day, you are taken through a ritual of showers, steam, scrub, soaping, rinsing and massaging. Everything is done in a process at the end of which you can take a dip in their pool. You are guided through the baths and just follow the instructions. When it is over you will feel thoroughly refreshed and ready for another day. We had dinner at Somine Cafe and it is a decent choice.
Day 5: We started our day with a visit to the Devrent Valley and Pasabag which are worth visiting for the lunar landsacpe and fairy chimneys. The landscape at Devrent Valley is amazing and one can meander through the various formations hiking up and down. Pasabag in turn has the most variety of chimney formations and can be seen without hiking too much.
A picnic lunch at Avanos was followed up by the Zelve Valley and Goreme Valley open air museums. Both are remarkable for their topography and cave churches, though Goreme is the more famous and interesting of the two. Zelve being less touristy is empty and more enjoyable if one wants to spend time admiring the landscape and climbing around. The painted churches are the highlight of Goreme open air museum. it does get crowded in tourist season and some churches have very narrow passages where you need to crouch. The best way to tackle them is to enter the passage only when you know that the entire way is clear. The best cave is the Dark Church containing the most preserved paintings. The extra fee is well worth it. Another church (Buckle Church) outside the museum boundary is worth seeing.
Our tour ended at a beautiful cafeteria where we got views of the Cappadocia Valley including Uchisar Castle. The coffee was not great but the view made up for it. We had dinner at Ziggy’s Cafe in Urgup and this is highly recommended. The ambiance and food are both top notch. Another good option was Dimrit Cafe but we found Ziggy more appealing from outside.
Day 6: The last day of our vacation and we were up at 3am. Before you get ideas of a rocking nightlife, be informed that this is the departure time for Hot Air Ballooning in Cappadocia. Having done ballooning before. I was not inclined to repeat it at this unearthly hour. I went along for the sake of company and I will not regret the decision. Ballooning in Cappadocia is a totally different experience and not to be missed. It takes 2 hours to organise evryone after a quick breakfast and the ride starts at 5am. Take the standard one hour ride and sign up with a reputed company. Other operators will also be safe, but how much you enjoy the ride depends on the manouvering skill of your pilot. Our pilot was an expert; sunrise over the fair chimneys, views of the Uchisar Castle, Goreme town from above and flying low between the formations; all was accomplished with skill and ensured an experience to savour. The good operators have the best balloons, more space and their pilots can take you low down and between the valleys. We took the Kappadokya Balloons and recommend it. The 60 Minute ride was for EUR160 per person. Other good operators are Goreme Balloons and Butterfly Balloons. Here I would specially mention that Eren Serpen, the owner of Serinn House, is very helpful with the arrangements advises you on your stay perfectly. And the homemade breakfast they serve is an added bonus.
The trip was a good introduction to the heritage and history of Turkey. Istanbul was fantastic with its great bazaars and magnificent architecture. 3 days was not enough to soak in the city. Cappadocia felt like a time machine transporting you 2000 years back, when people stayed in caves and underground cities. The caves, churches and underground cities are present in their original form offering a glimpse into their civilisation. All in all, Turkey was a wonderful journey, leaving us wanting to return for more.
#TurkeyTravel #Istanbul #Cappadocia #HotAirBallooning #BlueMosque #TopkapiPalace #EuropeTravel #WorldTravel #FamilyTravel #TravelBlog
Leave a Reply